OG Lobster Roll
For folks in the East Coast of Canada, there is no dish more delectable than the famous lobster roll. It is the epitome of local comfort food in the Canadian Maritimes. Big chunks of fresh succulent lobster, soaked in garlic lemon butter, served on a steaming hot dog style bun with a big helping of potato chips on the side. Aah, sometimes it’s the simplest things that make the biggest impression.
I can think of no better dish that captures the true taste of coastal Canadian summer than a lobster roll. If you’re homesick like me, or just love Canada (who doesn’t), here is a recipe that will brighten up your lonesome pandemic summer. First, whip up this delicious Canadian lobster roll. Second, grab a cold bottle of Hefeweizen. Lastly, find yourself a picnic table with a view of the ocean (or lake) and enjoy. Also, don’t forget to practice social distancing!
Where did Lobster Rolls come from?
Believe it or not, the lobster roll did not originate in Canada. You would think it’s one of our own invention because it is such a Canadian classic. Even McDonald's restaurants in Atlantic Canada and Ontario offer lobster rolls as a limited edition item in the summer called the McLobster. I tried it and it was actually really bad, compared to the authentic lobster roll.
To honor this maritime dish, let’s dive into some details surrounding the lobster roll's reign. According to the "Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink", the lobster roll was first introduced as a hot dish in restaurants in Connecticut, as early as 1927. Its popularity then spread up and down the east coast and traveled all the way to the Canadian Maritimes.
The real lobster roll however, can be traced further back to the 1890s and the credit for this simple and humble sandwich goes to lobster fishermen along the Atlantic east coast. According to Sandra Oliver’s book “Saltwater Foodways”, lobster fishermen at the time kept their catch in “lobster pounds,” which were natural coves penned off in the same way a rancher might keep livestock. Practically minded fishermen would boil a few lobsters when their pens got full, put the meat on rolls, and sell their lobster rolls to tourists.
Why in a roll? Lobster is delicate and the meat falls apart easily. And, as anyone who’s cooked lobster knows, it can be tough business getting lobster out of its shell. While today’s diners are armed with shell breakers and uniformed with bibs, well-heeled tourists of the Edwardian period were a touch daintier in their dining habits. Lobster roll was a polite way for tourists to eat this cheap delicacy as a roadside snack.
Why do you call it cheap? During the late 18th and early 19th centuries, lobster was super plentiful. Like, overly abundant. Some accounts even report hundreds of them washing up on beaches, to the point where lobster was known as the ‘poor man’s food.’ Once considered ‘feed’ for servants, prisoners and yes, animals, today’s lobster is celebrated as the epitome of foodie luxury. My, how times have changed.
Lobster Roll vs Lobster Salad Roll
The recipe is refreshingly simple, but over the years, the lobster roll has seen its fair share of transformations. For most lobster lovers, a true roll consists of chopped meat, drenched in butter and served hot on a toasted split-top hot dog bun. Nowadays, this buttery version is known as the ‘Connecticut lobster roll,’ or just simply “lobster roll”.
On the other hand, variations served with a mayonnaise base are ‘Maine’ style, also known as a “lobster salad roll”. In this version, chefs usually add a splash of lemon juice, diced scallion or celery, lettuce, as well as some finely chopped herbs and spices. This adaptation of the lobster roll is typically served cold (since it’s really a salad), and is super refreshing.
Both are easy, humble and exceptionally tasty. Although the buttered version is the real ‘OG,’ the lobster salad roll with mayo has spread like wildfire over the years. Oddly enough, experts claim that the majority of patrons actually prefer the warm lobster roll, despite the cold lobster salad roll being more popular in restaurants.
It’s obvious the customization are endless. There are those who swear by the split-top bun, while others prefer a side-split roll. If it's not going to have butter, some say, don't bother, while others won't stand for a lobster roll without mayo. Let's not even get into the debate on whether or not there should be lettuce and celery, unless you want to start an actual war.
But if you were to ask me, I’d aim for the biggest, freshest flavor possible by keeping it simple. The less complicated the marinade, the more you taste the sweetness of the crustaceans and the brightness of the sea. A good lobster roll needs the following:
Fresh lobster meat, served hot for best flavor
Plenty of butter (or mayo, if you choose the cold version)
Split-top style bun, toasted to perfection
Brush the bun with butter—and be generous!
French fries or chips on the side, per tradition
It’s super easy to make your own lobster roll at home and costs half of what you pay for at all the seafood hipster joints.
Here is my recipe.
Recipe: OG Lobster Roll
Serves: 4
Preparing the lobster
Fresh Lobster Tails - 6
Water - 4 cups
Salt - 1 tsp
Fill a large pot with water and add 1 tsp of salt. Bring the water to a rolling boil and add the lobster tails into the pot. Boil the tails for about 4-5 minutes until the shell is a bright red color. Do not cover. Stir the lobsters half way through cooking.
Remove the lobster tails from the pot when done. Let the lobster rest for at least 5 minutes or so after cooking to allow the meat to absorb the moisture inside the shell. Split the tail with a knife or use a kitchen shear to cut through the tail. Remove the meat from the shell, give it a gentle rinse, roughly dice and set aside.
Poaching the lobster meat
Unsalted Butter - 2 sticks (about 8 oz)
Garlic Cloves - 2, minced
Chili Flakes - 1/2 tsp
Mustard Seed - 1/2 tsp
Paprika - 1/4 tsp
lemon Juice - 1 tbsp
Salt - 1/2 tsp
Melt the butter in a small saucepan over low heat. Add garlic, chili flakes, mustard seed, paprika and salt. Stir well and wait until the garlic cooks and spices bloom, about 3 minutes until they start to smell fresh, nutty, and kind of toasty. Strain the butter then add it back to the saucepan. Add the lobster meat and lemon juice and cook over moderately low heat, stirring occasionally, until just cooked through, about 5 minutes.
Assembling the lobster roll
Brioche Split-Top Hot Dog Buns - 4 (I like the EuroClassic ones from WholeFoods, or you can try baking your own!)
Butter - however much you want for spreading
Any leafy lettuce of your choice
Fresh Chives, thinly sliced for garnish
Butter the inside of the bun, then gently toast in a 350°F oven until buns are warmed through and lightly crispy, about 5 minutes. Fill with a couple lettuce leaves and top it off with warm lobster. Garnish with chives and drizzle more of that lobster flavored butter. Serve right away with a side of potato chips and cold beer.
